Archive for October 30th, 2008

A Dozen Beaujolais Bargains

The Beaujolais region in central France is suffering a profound economic crisis. Largely because of the Beaujolais nouveau craze every November, that image of exuberant, frothy, simple wines has clearly led the vast majority of consumers to think of these wines as one-dimensional. In fact, there are some remarkable and serious wines from Beaujolais, all drinkable young but certainly capable of limited aging. Here are some selections from my colleague, David Schildknecht, who covers this region as one of his specialties.

88 points
2006 Chanson Père & Fils Fleurie

Recent quality enhancements under the new owners of old line Beaune négociant Chanson extend to its line of Beaujolais, as witness this 2006 Fleurie. Tart purple plum, toasted pecan, soy, and wet stone mingle in a juicy, refined, by no means simple wine that is ripe, free of superficial sweetness, and with satisfying length. $17

89 points
2006 Dominique Piron—Domaine de la Chanaise Fleurie

Dominique Piron and his American oenologist wife, Kristine Mary, are nowadays crafting some of the more interesting, not to mention delicious, wines in Beaujolais. The Piron 2006 Fleurie offers smoked meat, ripe black raspberry, mocha, and a tactile pungency suggesting mineral influence. This finishes strong and surprisingly firm, and should be worth following over the next three to five years. $21

89 points
2007 Georges Duboeuf Morgon (Flower Label)

The flower label 2007 Morgon from Georges Duboeuf reveals a charming side too seldom in evidence this vintage. Scents of fraises des bois and tart cherry mingle with hints of fennel and cocoa powder. In the mouth, this is refreshing and quite delicate, with lightly cooked strawberry, green tea, and subtle cherry stone bitterness. Saline, savory, and carnal undertones in the finish remind one of the more serious side to Morgon. Enjoy this amazing value over the next two to three years. $13

89 points
2006 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques

The 2006 Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques from Louis Jadot represents a blend of different vineyard sites. Its bright raspberry and pomegranate fruit gradually parts to reveal a deep, marrow-like meatiness typical for the best renditions of this appellation. An aura of resinous oak and (for Beaujolais) unexpected tannin clings to the sappy, bright fruit, and a saline streak in the finish adds to the refreshment that is doled out even as this wine stakes its claim to seriousness. $24

90 points
2007 Domaine des Terres Dorées—Jean-Paul Brun (Beaujolais) L’Ancien Vieilles Vignes

Terres Dorées’ flagship 2007 L’Ancien Vieilles Vignes may or may not be labeled “Beaujolais,” depending on when you buy it. Its vivid aromas and flavors of tart fresh cherry are allied to flowers and distilled berries in the nose and a positively chewy sense of fruit skin on the palate. Salty, chalky notes add complexity to the most invigorating and indelible finish you are apt to encounter in any under-$20 red wine. $19

90 points
2007 Georges Duboeuf Morgon Domaine Jean Descombes

The 2007 Morgon Domaine Jean Descombes sports a striking nose of black raspberry jam, cassis, and sweetly fragrant roses. Irresistibly luscious and bright, it saturates the palate with black fruits while also delivering persistent, wafting floral notes, tallow-like animal undertones, and hints of salt and wet stone. Enjoy this unusually successful and seamlessly ripe 2007 any time over the next four years. $15

90 points
2006 Michel Chignard Fleurie Les Mories

Ripe blueberry and black cherry fruit mingle with subtly bitter notes of black tea and cherry pit in Chignard’s 2006 Fleurie Les Mories. Suggestions of peat and tart fruit skin add interest and invigoration to a long, soothing finish. This wine should continue to be versatile and delicious for the next two to three years. $25

90 points
2007 Pierre-Marie Chermette—Domaine du Vissoux Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes Cuvée Traditionelle

Surprisingly dark in color for a wine so light in body (at 11.5% alcohol), the 2007 Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes Cuvée Traditionelle displays pure red berry and cassis fruit, sweet floral notes, citrus rind pungency, saline minerality, and a kinetic inner intensity that will leave your palate refreshed and invigorated.
There is also a darker, woodsy undertone here, which will emerge interestingly as this Beaujolais matures. Enjoy letting this wine demonstrate to you its versatility over the coming 18 to 24 months. (The equally lovely 2006 should be snapped up if you find it and enjoyed over the coming year.) $16

90 points
2006 Potel-Aviron Morgon Château-Gaillard Vieilles Vignes

Potel and Aviron’s 2006 Morgon Château-Gaillard Vieilles Vignes displays admirable purity, offering fresh and distilled cherry seasoned with ginger and white pepper, the whole suffused with iris-like floral notes and deep, marrow-like, and dark chocolate richness. Clear and juicy in finish even as its deep, dark side persists, this does not betray its oak in any way, and comes off overall as a relatively lightweight and elegant, yet concentrated Morgon, worth following for at least two to three years. $21

91 points
2006 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie

Fernand and Alain Coudert’s Clos de la Roilette is the source for some of the most profound and ageworthy wines of Beaujolais (not that they neglect to be refreshing and fun to drink young). Even their regular bottling of 2006 Fleurie will be worth following over the next two or three years at least. Notes of leather, wood smoke, and forest floor mingle with ripe cherry and raspberry in the nose. Generous juiciness on the palate is allied to a slightly grainy, palpable sense of extract and fine-grained tannin, while notes of toasted nut, raw beef, moss, and wet stones well up and add complexity to the wine’s long finish. $25

91 points
2007 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Les Charmes

Burgaud’s 2007 Morgon Les Charmes fills the nose and mouth with ripe plums, cherries, and violets and offers exuberantly vivid, juicy fresh fruit. With silken texture and fine-grained tannin, the wine finishes with genuine depth of marrow, smoked meat, and saline minerality. Enjoy this seductive beauty over the next two to three years. $19

92 points
2006 Daniel Bouland Morgon Vieilles Vignes

Ripe cassis and blackberry are allied to raw meatiness, pungent herbs, wood smoke, and sea breezes in the nose of Daniel Bouland’s 2006 Morgon Vieilles Vignes. The vividly juicy black fruits make this wine thirst-quenching as well as profound. As it takes on air, this true cru Beaujolais takes you to deeper, darker, stonier places, its intensity undiminished. Plan on following a few bottles for at least five years, as you will be rewarded with the experience. $22

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